Borie de Maurel, Esprit d’Automne

€12.99, O’Brien’s

Source: www.obrienswine.ie

Source: www.obrienswine.ie

You get a fiver off during July, making this delightful Minervois (next door to Corbières, but much smaller) a snip. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, all grown in small vineyards within this biodynamically managed domaine (which means they do stuff by the phases of the moon and bury cow horns between the vines; you may scoff, but it seems to work).

Have you ever tasted a mulberry? Possibly not, but I have had that privilege (from an ancient tree in an ancient garden in Sussex) and I can report that this virile yet mannerly red wine has a touch of the ripe mulberry about it. I suppose it qualifies under that general heading of “red fruits”. And yes, there’s more: a little vanilla, some pepper, a memory of liquorice. It’s good.