Potager

7 Church Street
Skerries
Co. Dublin
Phone: 01 802 9406

When it comes to a chef's CV, the words "Chapter One" and "Forest Avenue" have the authority of, say, Galileo talking about the movements of the planets. Cathal Leonard's cooking is meticulous, infinitely detailed, disciplined, thoughtful, mildly playful, carefully creative and comes with the confidence that comes with not just well-honed skill but years of experience. But this is certainly not what I think of as tortured food involving tweezers.