40 Lower Ormond Quay
Phone: 01 872 7320
Elaine Murphy's Winding Stair, above the eponymous bookshop and just upstream of the Ha'penny Bridge on the north of the Liffey, is something of a landmark. It was the first to do genuinely modern Irish food in that the menu here leans heavily on tradition (e.g. collar of bacon with cabbage and Cheddar mash) and Irish artisan produce (that lovely platter of Irish charcuterie that makes such a good starter). It's a big noisy room, always busy, full of people who take food seriously but (most of whom) also know how to have a good time. And there's a good view of the river.