Bon Appetit

9 St James’s Terrace
Malahide
Co. Dublin
Phone: 01 845 0314

In the old days, when the dogs in the street had a shrewd idea that Charles J Haughey’s finances were not quite kosher, but before they were able to put their collective paw on the actual details, the Bon Appetit was a kind of northside Le Coq Hardi. It had good old-fashioned food, a kind of Irish cuisine bourgeois in every sense of the phrase, and its clientele tended to be d’un certain age. It’s very different now that Oliver Dunne, who made his name at the late lamented Mint in Ranelagh, is cooking meticulous, modern, Michelin-starred food.