Wine and food matching is the holy grail and it’s a subject that exercises a lot of people but, curiously enough, not many wine writers. Two exceptions are my old friend John Wilson (we go back to TCD days) and my newer friend Fiona Beckett whose detailed notes and remarkable memory fuels her website matchingfoodandwine.com which I heartily commend.
A lot of people know that Kelly’s on Rosslare Strand is a little piece of heaven, and they keep going back, time after time to the family hotel now run by Bill and Isabelle Kelly and their daughter Laura.
My desert island wine – amongst the whites anyway - is white Burgundy in its several guises but very much like this with its extra dimension of southern ripeness and honey, the underpinning on crisp acidity and distinct minerality, and the toasty, almost smoky finish.
This came as a very pleasant surprise. The vital statistics are simple: it’s from the Côtes de Bordeaux Blaye, so the right bank and about 40km north of Bordeaux; it’s Merlot and Cabernet but mostly the former, and 2011 was far from a knockout vintage in these parts.